Forth Vineyards – 2006 Histoire Chapter 1 Cabernet Sauvignon
November 27, 2009
The Facts:
Histoire Chapter 1 Cabernet Sauvignon from Forth Vineyards is made from fruit sourced primarily in Mendocino. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (89%) with Merlot (4%) and Syrah (7%) blended in. Both of the other varietals are from Dry Creek Valley Sources. This selection spent 20 months in a combination of new French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this Cabernet Sauvignon is $17.
Gabe’s Take:
As the name indicates this wine has a story. Thr fruit while officially from Mendocino is located in a part of Mendocino that if the AVA lines had been drawn slightly differently, would have actually been in Alexander Valley. At the time that Alexander Valley became an AVA the process for drawing those boundaries was not as clearly thought out as it is now. More about the story can be read at the website, including the plan for this series (chapters) to highlight different growers each time out.
Mendocino and Alexander Valley both grow lots of excellent fruit. I do find Alexander Valley Cabernet to have a number of specific and inherent qualities. So I was pretty curious to taste this wine and get my own reaction to it and how it relates to the story.
Violets, rose petals, dark berry and hints of cedar are part of the nose on this Cabernet Sauvignon. Cassis, cherry, and plum are all prominent through the palate. Dusty baker’s chocolate, earth and a ton of mineral notes make up the finish along with subtle wisps of smoke. Gripping tannins and solid acidity are present providing good firm structure.
For what it’s worth this wine definitely reminds me more of Alexander Valley Cabernet than Mendocino. Regardless though this is an excellent wine at an even better price. This is a very high quality Cabernet Sauvignon that could easily sell for $25-$30. It’s delicious now but It’ll evolve and drink well for the next 7-10 years. Another terrific wine from Forth Vineyards. If you aren’t drinking their wines yet, this is as good a place as any to start.
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Wilson Winery – 2007 Carl’s Vineyard Zinfandel
November 25, 2009
The Facts:
The Wilson Winery 2007 Carl’s Vineyard Zinfandel is produced from vines planted in 1993. Carl’s Vineyard is on Skaggs Spring Road in the Northwestern part of Dry Creek Valley. Its 10 acres sit 2318 feet above sea level. In addition to Zinfandel (96%), Petite Sirah (4%) is also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. 571 cases of this 2007 Zinfandel were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.
Gabe’s Take:
When I last visited Wilson Winery I recall the selection from Carl’s Vineyard as amongst my one or two favorites in their non-reserve line of Zinfandels. But seeing as that was 2 months ago and considering how wines evolve (as do tastes) I was curious to check in with this Zinfandel and see how it’ doing.
Aromas of cedar, blackberry and huckleberry form the core of the demonstrative nose of this vineyard designate Zinfandel. Black cherry is the most prominent component throughout the palate. So dominat in fact, that it really amounts to an avalanche of sweet black cherry. It’s joined by nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon notes along with an underlying layer of chocolate. Black pepper and a subtle hint of cola emerge in the finish. Cinnamon notes are more prominent than before and really persist as this wine leaves a lasting impression that tempts you to go back to the glass for another sip.
I’m glad to discover that the impression I had of this wine from a couple of months back was accurate. This is an excellent and well balanced Zinfandel. For those who love cherry notes, this wine has them in abundance. If anything a few months later this wine has come together even more. That said, don’t hesitate to lay this wine down for a couple of years, it has some positive evolution still ahead of it. A rock solid Zin from Wilson.
Dave’s Take:
I had the opportunity to share this selection with my side of the family in an early Thanksgiving celebration. I’m not sure what feels more wrong to me, celebrating Thanksgiving early or coming to terms with having shared this bottle. Had I known just how tasty it would be I would have hoarded it all to myself! Truth be told, I both enjoyed my early celebration and sharing this wine (everyone loved it), but I’m really tempted to buy a few bottles. This is why…
The nose is filled with jam laden berry fruits and wood. As Gabe noted, this wine is all about the cherries. The fruit is rich and forward, but never overdone, as it’s truly a well balanced wine. Underneath the delicious layers of cherry I was picking up hints of tea amongst the spice elements. This was the perfect Thanksgiving selection as the prominent spice notes (nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper) go so well with all of the traditional fare. The lengthy finish leaves you wanting more as the spice seems to go for days. This bottle will definitely age well for 3 years and possibly longer, but it is drinking really really well right now.
So as all good things must come to an end, so did my bottle. Good to the last drop is an understatement. To sum things up….this was great with food, great without food, and greatly missed when it was gone. There is an old show business axiom, “Always leave them wanting more”. Wilson Winery’s 2007 Carl’s Vineyard Zinfandel did just that.
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Vino Valpredo Wine Co. – 2007 Squeezebox Red
November 22, 2009
The Facts:
The Vino Valpredo 2007 Squeezebox Red is a blend of Zinfandel (49%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Syrah (16%). Fruit for this selection was sourced at several vineyards sites throughout Sonoma County. 1,500 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $30. Vino Valpredo Wine Company who produced and bottled this offering is an offshoot of Dry Creek Valley’s Fritz Winery.
Gabe’s Take:
I’ve been fond of the varietal offerings Fritz Winery has been making for many years now. So I was more than intrigued when I had the chance to taste their Squeezebox Red Blend. Sure it has a nice looking label and the proprietary name sounds like fun, but what does the juice taste like?
Aromas of mulled berry followed by dark berry fruit and significant additional spice notes fill out the expressive and vibrant nose of this 2007 blend. Black mission fig leads the palate along with a combination of fresh and dried fruit notes. Cranberry, cherry and both red and dark plum are prominent. Sour cherry, blackberry pie and black pepper emerge in the finish and provide lasting flavors that linger well after the last sip is gone. This wine has terrifc acidity and will be an excellent match for a wide array of full flavored foods.
Squeezebox Red is a cohesive blend where the sum is greater than the whole of the parts. Sometimes with blends of this nature one varietal so clearly outshines another that it detracts from the others, not so here. Each of the 3 varietals in Squeezebox Red come together and shine as an ensemble. This is a delicious wine that will be right at home on your table during a holiday buffet or other event with a variety of foods being served.
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Wilson Winery – 2007 Diane’s Reserve Zinfandel
November 18, 2009
The Facts:
Wilson Winery produces a host of different wines. However with more than a dozen Zinfandels in their portfolio it’s fair to say that it’s their signature varietal much as it is Dry Creek Valleys. The Wilson Winery 2007 Diane’s Reserve Zinfandel is made from select lots. In addition to Zinfandel (92%), there is Petite Sirah (8%) blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 15 months in French oak; 43% of the barrels were new. A mere 117 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $60.
Gabe’s Take:
On a recent trip to Dry Creek Valley I was knocked out by the number of designate Zinfandels Wilson Winery is making. Depending on your taste and preference for style of Zin they probably have one to fit the bill. Tasting them side by side is always great but spending some time with one alone is a nice way to get inside an individual wine. So I was happy to revisit Diane’s Reserve, which I recalled as one of my favorites, from the aforementioned visit.
Cherry and plum are all part of the very aromatic nose of this wine which also features a lovely floral component led by violets. Kirsch liqueur, cranberry, blackberry, and alternating sweet and sour cherry notes are part of an intense and layered palate that keeps coming at you with wave after wave of rich and opulent flavor. The finish is lengthy and loaded with decadent fruit, chocolate, graham cracker crust, chicory, black pepper and additional spice notes.
When you get into the price range this Zinfandel does, at $60, one of the attributes to look for is age-worthiness. Diane’s Reserve has that. Yes it’s delicious now, particularly with an hour in a decanter, but time will serve this Zinfandel well. This wine is big and bold but it’s also both balanced and structured; in short built for the long haul. It’s still Zinfandel so the long haul isn’t going to be as long as the above average age-worthy Cabernet for instance. This wine should evolve positively over the next 7-8 years and drink well for several after that. Bottom line, this is a remarkable expression of Zinfandel that will impress those that love Dry Creek Valleys signature varietal. An outstanding job by the folks at Wilson Winery.
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Down Home : Downtown, A Sonoma County Cookbook
November 17, 2009
The Facts:
Down Home : Downtown is a five-way collaboration. The Chefs involved are Jeff Mall and Josh Silvers; respectively they represent Zin Restaurant in Healdsburg and Syrah Bistro in Santa Rosa. Photographs for the book were taken by lifelong Sonoma resident Alan Campbell. The recipes in the book were paired with wines from Rodney Strong Vineyards a stalwart producer that has long championed their sense of place. They also published the book. Text was written by Wine, Food and Travel Writer Linda Murphy. Like everyone else involved in this project she’s a long time Sonoma resident. The list price for this book is $24.95
Gabe’s Take:
When I first heard about the concept for Down Home : Downtown I was pretty intrigued. In addition to the plethora of terrific wines that emanate from Sonoma County there’s a ton of delicious food too. That food is represented by local farmers, artisan cheese makers and yes a slew of world class dining options.
Joining the bevy of recipes and terrific photography the book has a primer from each of the Chefs as well as Rodney Strong Vineyards. Of course each Chef is introduced and described but Jeff and Josh each also provide a Pantry list which serves as fascinating shorthand into their kitchens. The primer from the Rodney Strong Vineyards has wine pairing tips as well as basic wine storage and serving advice.
The meat of the book is split as the title indicates, Down Home and Downtown. Zin Restaurant in Healdsburg is Down Home and Syrah Bistro in Santa Rosa is Downtown. Each of their sections is further honed by season. That of course makes perfect sense as the goal should be to create and enjoy dishes that are primarily based on ingredients that are in season. In addition to the restaurants being located in different and disparate Sonoma towns, their respective chef-owners also have distinct culinary focuses. Zin Restaurant lean towards comfort food while Syrah Bistro is more upscale and French influenced. The recipes in Down Home : Downtown include 2 appetizers, 2 entrees and 2 desserts from each chef for each season.
The bottom line for me, this is a terrific book. In one volume you’re getting a heap of great recipes from two highly regarded chefs. The differences between their restaurants are the key to getting a diverse array of cooking ideas. Each recipe has wine pairing recommendations, many of them specific Rodney Strong selections. The photographs of the food and the landscape are wonderful accompaniments. At the end of the day, recipes, chefs, winery, photographer, writer aside. The star of this book is Sonoma County. Whether you prepare every recipe in this book over time or just experiment with a couple, Down Home : Downtown will help you behold the bounty of Sonoma County. It’s a fun read too. With the holiday season upon us this book will make an excellent gift for both wine lovers and foodies.
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Sbragia Family Vineyards – 2006 La Promessa Zinfandel
November 13, 2009
The Facts:
Sbragia Family Vineyards is a true multi-generational operation with lots of family members involved in every facet of the winery. The Sbragia 2006 La Promessa Zinfandel is made from fruit sourced at the winery’s vineyard of the same name. La Promessa (the promise in Italian) was planted in 1999. This 2006 release marks the first vintage from that planting. In addition to Zinfandel (96%), there is also Petite Sirah (4%) in this selection. Barrel aging was accomplished over 19 months in 100% new French oak.791 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.
Gabe’s Take:
Even though it’s only 4%, the mere thought of that touch of Petite Sirah gets me excited. Of course these two grapes are incredibly natural partners, so it’s no surprise that Sbragia Family Vineyards would use them together.
Dark berry and plum pudding spice notes make up the expressive and alluring nose of this Zinfandel. Rich, appealing cassis and dark cherry liqueur are joined by spice notes on the full flavored and intense palate which delivers multiple layers of flavor. All of this leads to a finish that has some earth as well as chocolate dipped blackberry pie and plenty of black pepper. Good acidity frames this offering.
There are a couple of things that stand out to me about this Zinfandel. First of all it’s a classic expression of Dry Creek Valley and quite true to the greatness than can be achieved with Zinfandel in this valley. Considering this is the inaugural vintage from this vineyard I expect even greater things going forward. The other standout is that this Zinfandel is just made to pair with food. With an Italian name for the wine and the vineyard, not to mention the family heritage, I’d expect nothing less. Pair this with Sunday dinner at your Mom’s house.
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Kokomo Winery – 2008 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc
November 11, 2009
The Facts:
Kokomo Winery was founded in 2004 and named after winemaker Erik Miller’s hometown in Indiana. Their focus is on single vineyard wines from several appellations; notably Dry Creek Valley where their winery, estate vineyards and tasting room are located.
The Kokomo Winery 2008 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc is made from fruit sourced at Timber Crest Vineyards. This offering is 100% Sauvignons Blanc. This wine was fermented in stainless steel. 200 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $28 for a 375 ml bottle.
Gabe’s Take:
Sauvignon Blanc is one of the signature grapes of Dry Creek Valley and undoubtedly the benchmark white varietal of the area, so it’s no surprise that a great number of the dessert wines there are made from it. Having tasted a few of Kokomo’s other offerings at ZinTopia I was eager to sample this Late Harvest Wine.
The effusive nose of this Dessert wine shows off orange blossom notes underscored by flourishes of almond and hazelnut. Peach, honey, tangerine, continued orange and additional fresh citrus flavors are prominent throughout the mouth-coating palate. Honey emerges on the finish along with touches of apricot that linger. This wine is delicious on its own but even better paired with a fresh fruit tart, hazelnut biscotti or Italian cheesecake.
Two things stand out most obviously about this wine. The abundance of fresh fruit flavors, particularly in the citrus family is one. The excellent balance is the other. This late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Kokomo achieves a goal that many set out for but a lot fewer reach. It’s sweet but never cloying, has terrific acidity but it’s not too overwhelming. And the alcohol level is also in check at a modest 11.8%. All around this is a very nice wine.
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Kachina Vineyards – 2007 Chardonnay
November 10, 2009
The Facts:
The 2007 Kachina Vineyards Chardonnay was 66% barrel aged for 11 months in new French Oak and blended with 33% that was aged in stainless. A total of 40 cases were produced. This is the inaugural vintage of their Chardonnay and the first effort from winemaker Nancy Chambers. The suggested retail price is $32.00
Dave’s Take:
Unfortunately I have not yet had the pleasure of meeting Nancy; however I did have the opportunity to try her 2007 Chardonnay. With just 40 cases produced, I needed to both cough up the cash and pry this baby from the hands of her husband Greg, but this investment was well worth it. I find it amazing that a first effort can yield such great results. No doubt this is due to the extreme love and care that both the grapes and the wine received from Nancy.
This bottle is a cornucopia of tropical fruit. Pineapple and grapefruit fight for center stage gifting you with an effusive nose. On the palate, however, is where it gets interesting with more than a hint of butterscotch and honeysuckle and a touch of toasted coconut. An above average finish leaves you smiling as the tropical fruits gently fade away to expose a nice minerality. No two ways about it – this is a delicious wine that is drinking very well right now. I would like to see where this wine goes as the brightness of the tropical fruits drop off a bit, but there is always that quandary of drinking it while it’s definitely great versus the “chance” it could get better.
To sum things up, some of the best experiences in Dry Creek Valley will be found at the artisan wineries where production is extremely limited but attention to detail is also very high. Nancy should be extremely proud of this first vintage. I will be first in line for the next one.
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Bella Vineyards – 2007 Two Patch Zinfandel
November 9, 2009
The Facts:
The 2007 Bella Vineyards Two Patch Zinfandel is 100% varietal, hailing from two distinct vineyards; 40% Big River Ranch and 60% from the Todd Brothers Ranch (both located in Northern Sonoma County). The Big River Ranch consists of 100+ year old vines hence they are low yield and high intensity grapes. The Todd Brothers Ranch contains 50 year old vines that are planted on a rocky, west facing slope. The wine was aged for 14 months in a combination of French and American Oak. A total of 844 cases were produced. The suggested retail price is $38.00.
Dave’s Take:
I have yet to make it to Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves, but frankly it will be amongst the first on my list for my next trip. I find the stories in Dry Creek to be particularly interesting. There is such a variety of old winemaking families and new entrepreneurs who have found the valley, bought a vineyard, and “set up shop”. Bella is just such a winery. After Scott and Lynn Adams were married in 1994, they ultimately moved to Dry Creek and started to learn the art of grape farming. This slowly led to winemaking four and a half years later. So now, more than a decade later, they are in full swing with several vineyards producing a few thousand cases of wine each year.
What first struck me about this bottle was the floral and plum nose. Over the past couple of years I have really come to enjoy the floral elements in a wine so needless to say I was filled with anticipation. The palate washed over with dark berry fruit – blackberries, boysenberry, and dark cherries. The lengthy finish lightens up with raspberry, vanilla, and nutmeg. This is simply delicious, and it has the backbone to age for probably a decade. I drank this bottle over four nights. The first night is didn’t begin to drink well for 1-2 hours in the decanter. The second night it was better! The 3rd night it held it’s own, and the fourth night it wasn’t as good as it was previously, but it was still good enough to serve. This is a very food friendly wine; I would drink it with everything from Pizza to Thanksgiving dinner.
To sum things up, this is a terrific wine from an artisan winery, it doesn’t come cheap, but it is still remarkable value. I found out after drinking this that Michael Dashe (from Dashe Cellars) serves as a consulting winemaker. I am not surprised, as this selection is a very similar value wine to his own selections. By the way, his resume includes working at such wineries as Far Niente in Napa, Cloudy Bay winery in New Zealand, and Chateau Lafite Rothschild in Bordeaux. I’m guessing he might have picked up a thing or two. Thankfully Scott and Lynn are there willing to listen! Check out this winery next time you go, I doubt you will be disappointed.
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Quivira – 2006 Wine Creek Ranch Mourvèdre
November 8, 2009
The Facts:
Quivira is a one of the Dry Creek Valley wineries that has been helping to lead the Biodynamic charge for both DCV and all off Sonoma and beyond. Visiting Quivira it becomes apparent that their farming, overall production and business practices are completely ingrained in their operation. The Quivira 2006 Mourvèdre is sourced from fruit on their Wine Creek Ranch vineyard. This offering is 100% varietal. Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in neutral French oak. 368 cases of this Mourvèdre were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.
Gabe’s Take:
Like Syrah, Mourvèdre is one of those varietals I wish there was more of in Dry Creek Valley. The climate seems particularly suited to them in my opinion. Quivira has a very focused portfolio. it features a nice array of offerings that each do an excellent job of putting the emphasis on what works for them.
Plum, blueberry and hints of savory spice are prominent in the nose of this 2006 Mourvèdre. The palate is sumptuous and layered with an array of dark and ominous fruit flavors. Blackberries are a particular standout along with continued plum and a subtler but present layer of rhubarb. Chocolate notes kick in towards the back end of the palate and continue through the finish which also features significant black pepper and earth character. That finish is above average in length and beckons you back to the glass for another sip once it vanishes.
Delicious on their own, by and large, the wines Quivira makes are even better when paired with a home cooked meal. This Mourvèdre is no exception. Pork loin, rubbed with classic Mediterranean spices such as rosemary and garlic, then roasted is a screamingly terrific accompaniment. Quivira has been on a heck of a roll the last few years, releasing one fine wine after another; here’s hoping that trend continues for many years.
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